Boracay is just a very small island off Panay. It's the primary destination these days though. Most visitors are from Korea, Japan, and America. My virgin exposed legs got bitten to death by mosquitoes at night whilst sitting at beach bars! We kept mainly to the north of the Philippines. You steer clear of the southern islands, like Mindanao where there is a lot of trouble. Only this week a lot of government troops were killed and beheaded by Islamic militants there.
When we first traveled north on Luzon (the main island) Lucy's family fixed us with a car and bodyguard. It seems that you still have to be careful when you're away from the big cities.
The news today shows that yet another ferry has sunk in the Philippines with a large loss of life. The country seems to be notorious for poor standard of boats.
I kept a diary while I was there. It petered out towards the end so I've just updated it belatedly:
Friday 15th
Taxi to ferry. Train to Glasgow.
Had breakfast/brunch at Glasgow station. Train from Glasgow made unscheduled stop at Motherwell to pick up passengers from an earlier train that had broken down. Train subsequently busy, and additional stops made.
Underground from Euston to Heathrow. Couple of beers at Heathrow and played chess with Joshua.
Good flight with BA to Hong Kong. About 12 hours. Didn't sleep at all for some reason.
Saturday 16th
Hong Kong airport very clean and stylish. Had coffee in bar with jazz band playing easy-listening stuff in corner.
Cathay Pacific flight to Manila. Lovely journey with good Asian meal. Friendly crew. Watched Royle Family, Extras and The Office on plane.
Once through airport at Manila, stepped outside into the rush of heat. Just like stepping onto a James Bond film set. Chaos of traffic. Police and staff with whistles trying to organise things. First taste of Manila's traffic!
Picked up by Lucy's nephew and more of the family in their four by four. No small cars here. People have to have big. Driving is chaotic. Overtaking and undertaking. Horns have to be sounded every few seconds - especially at night it seems. The vehicle that has priority is the one that doesn't chicken-out. Don't seem to be many accidents though. Vehicles will stop if, as a pedestrian, you start to cross in front of them.
Hotel gave us a room that in no way resembled the one we'd booked. Got it changed. Nice suite of rooms with a wet-room style bathroom. Parquet style flooring. Lounge, kitchen and bathroom. ?16 a night total for the 2 of us. (Josh is staying with his Grandmother).
Had a couple of drinks in street by hotel that night. We are staying in Makati - part of "Metro Manila". Manila is surrounded by other cities, such as Makati, that make up Metro Manila. Manila doesn't close at night. Doesn't even seem to ease up! Lot of cajoling for money by street beggars, offers of massage etc, watches, viagra, trainers, flowers "for the lady". Freaky looking guy with no legs on a skateboard persevered for money, as did a chap frenetically driving a ricketty red wheel-chair, who kept popping up to introduce himself etc. You just have to ignore them, or say "No thank you" firmly. Also single women carrying babies look forlornly at you with hands held out. Lucy tells me that they may not be their babies and that they could be working for masters in scams...
(Addition: Saw the chap on the "skateboard" (which was actually just a tray on castors), again when returning to Makati City at the end of the holiday. The poor guy has no legs and only one arm. I watched him cross a horrifically busy road powered only by his one remaining limb holding a flip-flop to protect himself from the road. I think this image is what reminds me of the lack of a welfare state in the Philippines. I feel guilty that I didn't give him anything. I'll think twice before ever complaining about anything in future.)
Had meal late into the night. Table loaded with various Chinese dishes. Several beers and drinks each. Couldn't eat it all and left a lot. Total bill all in, including drinks was about ?7.50. Amazing value.
Sunday 17th
Makati
Much of morning spent in bed. Good views across much of the city. Thank goodness for the air conditioning. Read papers. Saw Roger Kettle's "Andy Capp" strip.
Went to a Makati shopping mall. Had some great food - a variety of dishes. Very cheap. MacDonalds and Burger Kings are relatively quiet, while Asian food places are busy. Bought a big memory card (2GB) for my camera. Took lots of pics but accidentally reformatted the card and lost them!
Bought map in bookstore. Place was packed.
Went on long journey by excellent metro train and then arduous taxi in heavy traffic, to Lucy's niece's 18th birthday party. Karaoke party! I had to sing. Family very generous with food and drink.
Was surprised that out of about 70 people in our train carriage, I was one of only a couple of men! Lucy eventually explained that the carriage was especially for women, or disabled and elderly. Lots of smiles from girls. Red face from me.
Monday 18th
Makati
Walk to museum and bought cold drinks on the way. Big mistake. Within half an hour I had stomach cramps. Had been warned not to drink water or take ice. Had to use rather posh loo, with disconcerting translucent door, and then a taxi back to hotel for tablets and a lie-down. Tablets work fast.
Evening went to an Internet cafe to catch up on emails, and forums. After that, TGI Fridays and then Hard Rock Cafe. Excellent band at HRC. Hotel California and Bohemian Rhapsody went down especially well. Drank strong bottled Guinness (not so cheap though). Most beer is about 35p a bottle.
Tuesday 19th
Makati
Up at 6am. Went to shop next door to get milk. Everywhere really busy already. Got offered a massage right outside the door! Lovely friendly girls, but had to politely decline. Another girl walked past eating an ice-cream cone. Bizarre. Slept much of the morning back in bed, catching up with sleep after that.
Went to a Starbucks to check emails etc with laptop. Client has requested a leaflet be printed with some changes. Amended artwork and emailed files to printer in England.
Wednesday 20th
Makati
Thursday 21st
Booked car with driver and bodyguard to Subic Bay Freeport. Stayed in lovely hotel there overnight. Driver and mate stayed in car. Saw amazing Fruit Bats flying over our heads in Subic Bay. Like rooks!
Friday 22nd
Continued north to small village near Alaminos. Booked room. Waved car, driver, and bodyguard off.
Saturday 23rd
Boat over to Hundred Islands. Hire of boat, plus crew of 2 men and 2 lads was ?8. We gave them ?10. Visited a few of the islands.
Sunday 24th
Motor-tricycles to Alaminos, then mini bus to Dagupan. Change of minibus to Baguio City, high in mountains.
Monday 25th
Baguio City
Tuesday 26th
Coach trip from Baguio City to Manila. Comfortable coach, though air-conditioning was too cold. An hour just to get down from Baguio City at top of mountain. Drove through very heavy rains. Long journey - 6.5 hours. Had to stop in bus garage full of fumes to get wipers fixed. Much of luggage was wet.
In Manila booked hotel for one night. Heavy rain. Many people sleeping outdoors on pavements. Entire families even. Went into luxurious Hyatt Hotel for a couple of beers. Jazz band and singer. Quite sumptious. Big contrast to scenes of poverty outdoors. Felt a bit guilty.
Wednesday 27th
Flew from Manila to Kaliboo on Panay Island. Minibus from airport to Caticlan, then short boat trip to Boracay.
Thursday 28th - Tuesday 3rd July
Boracay Island
A great week on Boracay. Decided to take a chalet for a week and stop the tiring traveling. This is the Philippines' fast developing tourist destination. There is so much development going on, and I understand its a threat to wildlife, like fruitbats. People try to sell you stuff all the time, which you just get used to. It seems to be like this all over the Philippines as a whole, and it's never nasty. (There's no welfare state, and whilst some beg, most people have a work ethic, even if it's just selling single fags, or salvaging and sorting scrap from waste bins etc). People are only ever polite and friendly. Enjoyed the warmth of the water, and a couple of boat trips.
Good bars and lots of guitar players. Cat Stevens predominates! Suits me as I like his stuff.
Plenty of restaurants. One close to our chalet offered "all you could eat" for ?2 including oysters, prawns, crabs, fish, mussels, chicken, pork, soup, rice, and salads. (Never eaten so many oysters!)
Tuesday 3rd July
Flew back to Manila. Stayed at another nice hotel in Makati City.
Wednesday 4th July - Friday 6th
Final few days in the Metro Manila conurbation winding down ready for the journey home.
Friday 6th July
Flight leaves Manila for Hong Kong at 8pm in the evening (nine hours in front of UK). Short time at HK before BA flight takes us back to the UK.
Saturday 7th July
Arrive back at UK at 4.15am. Train to Glasgow and back on Bute by 4pm
Jet lag 'til Wednesday
